"What do I need to get started in saltwater flyfishing?"

This one of the most frequent questions asked. Each year as more and more anglers join the ranks of saltwater flyfishers, providing a clear no non-sense starting point is crucial. There’s much opinion on what a person needs and doesn’t need, how much they should spend, etc. While no one article can thoroughly cover every possible topic in the sport, in this article I will try to cover the basics. This article is is rather lengthy because there is much on the subject to discuss! I have tried to break the article into easy to find sections covering the major topics for getting started in saltwater flyfishing.

"What is the difference between spin or conventional casting and fly casting?"

With spin or conventional casting you are casting a very heavy lure or bait rig attached to an almost weightless line.

With fly casting, it’s just the opposite. That is, you’re casting an almost weightless lure (any weighted eyes, lead etc. is relatively insignificant) attached to a heavy line. Thus, it’s the weight of the line and not the lure that has to be considered when fly casting.

"What is fly line?"

For the most part, fly line is braided Dacron line (usually 30 lb. test) covered with a synthetic rubber coating. The coating is thicker over some parts of the line and thinner over others. This is what gives the fly line it’s weight. In recent years several fly lines have been developed that use monofilament instead of Dacron as the core material. Usually these lines have a clear coating and are used to reduce visibility in the water.

Fly lines are typically 30 to 40 yards in overall length. Some lines are much less but those usually fall under the category of a Shooting Head (see below for a discussion of Shooting Heads). The front bulkier portion of the line called the "Head" while the remaining/trailing thinner part is called the "Running Line".

"What does the weight of a line or fly rod mean?"

A fly line is given a weighting number from 1 (the lightest) to 20 (the heaviest). This number corresponds to total weight of the synthetic rubber coating.

For all intents and purposed those lines at the extreme ends of the spectrum (from #5 and lower or from #13 and up) are special purpose lines. That is, they are not used for general every day fly fishing, freshwater or saltwater. They are only employed under very special and specific conditions. For our needs as saltwater fly fishers on a daily basis we generally use lines and rods rated from #8 to #11, with most new saltwater fly casters choosing a #9 or #10 weight line and matching rod.

You will also see that some fly rods are multi-rated. That is, the rods are marked as 8/9 wt. or 9/10 wt. This means you can use either a #8 or #9, or #9 or #10 fly line (respectively) on these rods. In general, even if you use a single weight rod you can go one weight more or less on the rod (i.e. a #9 rod can handle a #8, #9 or #10 line) for brief periods. However, do not exceed the rated weight of the rod for extended periods of time. This may cause damage to the rod.

A new saltwater fly fisher should probably get a #9 or #10 rod. The extra weight will help you more easily learn to cast. Later, after you’ve gained experience casting you can try lighter or heavier outfits.

"What style of line should I use?"

Fly lines basically come in 4 styles:

1. Level Line – The weight of the line is evenly distributed over the entire length of the line.
   
    
2. Double Taper – Most of the weight of the line is in the middle of the line and the ends taper to a thinner diameter than the middle of the line.
   
    
3. Weight-Forward – The bulk of the weight is in the front Head part of the line while the rest of the line (the Running Line) is much thinner.
   
    
4. Shooting Head – A short but bulky piece of line attached to a longer piece braided line or mono as Running Line.

For saltwater flyfishing, since we are typically casting larger and more bulky flies and under more windy conditions, the Weight-Forward style is used. Even for fishing that requires a delicate presentation (such as Bonefish on flats) the Weight-Forward style is most commonly used.

"Should I buy a specialty line?"

In recent years many fly line manufacturers have developed "specialty" lines. These lines are supposed to be designed specifically for fishing certain conditions or for targeting specific fish. Some examples are Bonefish or Tarpon lines, Offshore or Bluewater Lines, Bass Lines and Striper Lines.

There some advantages of these lines. Typically they do serve the need to the angler who fishes for those types of fish or under those conditions. That is, they are designed with certain features to help fishing under more specific conditions. For example, a Bonefish line is usually a Weight-Forward line with a longer Head section. This allows for a more careful presentation to wary Bonefish. Likewise, an Offshore or Bluewater fly line typically has a shorter but heavier (thicker) Head which is needed to cast the very large bulky flies often used for big game fly fishing. This isn’t in stone however. You can certainly use a Bonefish line for Stripers on flats for example. Remember: There’s no magic in the line. The line is simply tailored to be best under certain fishing conditions and not necessarily only for a specific fish.

In general, as a new saltwater fly fisherman you shouldn’t be too concerned about the use specialty lines yet. Start with a general purpose Weight-Forward saltwater fly line. Later you can experiment with more specific line types.

"What is a shooting head? Should I use one?"

As previously mention, a Shooting Head (sometimes referred to as the Shooting Head System) is a short (typically 30 to 40 feet in length) section of fly line attached to a very thin and slick running line. For all intents and purposes a Shooting Head is just the Head section of a fly line without running line attached (a few manufacturers such as Teeny do attach some running line to their shooting heads but this is the exception).

The main advantage of Shooting Heads is distance. You can quickly and easily cast a Shooting Head a long way. Also, the Shooting Head style of line is most often used for very fast sinking lines when you need to go extremely deep or overcome a fast current.

However, Shooting Heads do have some significant disadvantages. One major draw back is it takes longer to recast a Shooting Head than a regular full fly line. With a full line you can make a few strips in and pick up the line again to recast it. But with Shooting Head you pretty much have to retrieve all the running line and the head before you can recast. Clearly this isn’t helpful when you have to put your fly in front of a fish quickly. Another disadvantage is that Shooting Heads aren’t good for close-in fishing (they’re made for distance) and aren’t too accurately cast. Finally, since it’s easier to cast a Shooting Head and get good distance there is a tendency to let the Shooting Head compensate for poor casting technique. Thus, the angler doesn’t learn proper fly casting methods.

As a new saltwater flycaster you should first learn to properly cast a full fly line before a Shooting Heads.

"Should I use a floating or sinking line?"

Most saltwater flyfishing, especially from the surf or wading, is done on or very close to the surface of the water. In that regard a floating line is best. A floating line also helps casting. There is less resistance when you pick up the line off the water to cast. Further, a floating line allows you to fish over rocks, weeds and other "sticky" structure while reducing the fouling and hang ups that these structures often produce. A floating line allows you to keep your fly, even a weighted fly like a Clouser or Jiggy, in the strike zone yet still above the snags.

Sometimes, however, you do need to get your fly down under the water. You may need to go a few feet down in fast moving water or go deep in calmer waters. In these cases a full sinking line is better choice.

In recent years many saltwater fly fishers have been using intermediate lines primarily. An intermediate line is neutral (or at least extremely slow) density. That is, it neither floats or sinks. However, the weight of the leader and fly along with the action of the water and retrieving the line make the line sink very slowly. In still waters it will sink to the bottom while in faster waters your line may only go down a few inches.

As a new saltwater flyfisher you should probably get both a floating and an intermediate line. Leave the full sinking/fast sinking lines for later after you have gained some experience.

Selecting a Fly Rod

Saltwater fly rods are generally made from one of 4 types of materials:

1. Fiberglass – A fiberglass fly rod has many advantages. It’s the least expensive material for making a fly rod. It is also very strong with lots of "stopping power". And fiberglass can withstand being dropped on rocks, knocked around in a boat, etc. very well without significant damage. The main disadvantage of a fiberglass rod is it’s weight. A fiberglass fly rod is heavy and that can lead to tiring yourself out more quickly. If you do a mostly sight casting or casting to specific targets and structures a fiberglass rod is good. But if you typically spend hours blind casting you will probably tire yourself down faster with a fiberglass rod.
   
    
2. Graphite – This is the most common material used for saltwater fly rods today. The price has significantly come down as the sport has developed. Graphite and graphite composite rods offer the advantage of strength and light weight. If you spend long hours casting a graphite rod will greatly help increase your endurance. However, graphite rods may break or be damaged more easily than fiberglass rods under the same conditions. Also, graphite rods tend to be "softer" than fiberglass. That is, they tend to bend more. To be sure, there are stiff graphite rods but you are more likely to find a soft graphite rod than a soft fiberglass rod. This has advantages and disadvantages. On one hand a soft rod ("slow" action rod) can help you play a fish better on a light leader. On the other hand, a soft rod doesn’t have the same stopping power as a stiffer rod ("fast" action rod) which is often needed to control a fish.
   
    
3. Boron – Boron rods combine the light weight with greater strength. However, this material is rather expensive. Unless you have specific reasons for needing boron, your could probably do well with a lesser expensive graphite or fiberglass rod to start with.
   
    
4. Titanium Composite – This is the latest material for making fly rods. It offers superior strength and light weight. It is also the most expensive material for making a fly rod. Not many anglers use this type of rod as yet, probably owing to the price.

 

Which ever type of rod you get you should look for certain features:

• A graphite "Fuji-style" reel seat is easy to use and helps hold the reel secure to the rod.
  
   
• A fighting butt helps make playing a fish more comfortable. Some rods have removable fighting butts.
  
   
• Large guides help reduce drag resistance as the line moves through the rod.
  
   
• Foam or cork handles/grips are a matter or personal choice. Recently, ergonomically shaped handles have been introduced too. Which style you select make sure it’s most comfortable in your hand with no rubbing or pressure points that can lead to sore hands or blisters.

"Should I get a 2-piece or 4-piece flyrod?"

If you plan to fish locations far from home and will primarily reach those locations via air travel then a 4-piece rod is the better choice. It is much easier to carry a 4-piece rod (in the protective holder) on board a plane than a 2-piece rod (new post-9/11 security rules notwithstanding). That is not to say you can not bring a 2-piece rod on a plane with you but a 4-piece rod is much easier to store in overhead compartments and is less cumbersome to carry. Also, at home or in your car a 4-piece rod is easier to store. 4-piece rods are, however, usually a little more extensive than 2-piece rods.

However, if your fishing plans do not involve much air travel and storage space is not a problem then a 2-piece rod is fine. Many casters prefer 2-piece rods because there are fewer parts to forget or become lost. Also, a 2-piece rod is more quickly assembled to fish with, then disassembled for quick storage when moving to the next fishing location. This is especially helpful on a boat.

"Are 4-piece rods as strong as 2-piece rods?"

Yes! Absolutely!

Years ago (20+ years) there were few 4-piece flyrod blanks on the market. 4-piece flyrod blanks just were not being made as much as 2-piece blanks. Often, in order to make a 4-piece flyrod the rod builder would literally have to cut a 2-piece blank and install ferrules. That would often lead to weakening the rod (and sometimes even destroying the rod in failed attempts to make a 4-piece rod!).

Happily today the practice is long gone. Today’s rod blank manufactures produce 4-piece blanks that are specifically designed and engineered to be in 4-pieces. As with any rod, a given individual blank can be good or bad. But the 4-piece flyrods sold today are just as strong and reliable as 2-piece rods.

Selecting a Fly Reel

There is a very wide selection of saltwater flyfishing reels available, with an equally wide range of prices. Some reels like the Pfleuger Medalist series are very inexpensive (under $100) while others can run $500 or more. Many of the more expensive reels are specialty reels that you don’t need for your first outfit. The Scientific Anglers System2 reel is a good choice for your first reel. In general, expect to pay approximately $150 for your first saltwater fly reel.

Which ever brand and model you select you should choose one with the following features:

• Make sure it’s a saltwater reel. Not all large fly reels are made for saltwater.
  
   
• Check that it has a smooth drag.
  
   
• It must be able to hold your fly line PLUS a minimum of 100 yards of 30 lb. test Micron backing. You can go to 25 lb. test backing if you must but not lower. Backing of 20 lb. test or less just won’t do in saltwater flyfishing.
  
   
• Finally, buy at least one (two would be better) extra spools when you buy your reel. I know extra spools can sometimes be half as much as the reel but it’s worth it. You can load each spool with a different type of line (for example, one floating, one intermediate and one fast sinking). It’s much easier to change spools than to try to remove a fly line and re-spool a new line.

"What knot is best to for attaching the backing to the fly reel spool?"

This is a common question and the answer simply is: It doesn’t matter.

I typically use either an Improved Clinch Knot or a Uni Knot (see the list of Recommended Reading at the bottom for information on knot tying). But that’s just my choice.

A lot of anglers have very strong feelings about which knot to use but realistically the knot doesn’t matter. Why? Because if a fish is so large that it’s going to spool you (take out all your fly line and backing down to the bare spool) no knot in the world will hold that fish. To be sure, a good solid knot might hold it for a few moments but more than likely not for very long.

NOTE: If you are ever in a situation where you’re about to get spooled, it’s probably best to force the fish to break off rather than risk loosing your entire fly line.

Setting Up Your Leader System

Generally, a saltwater flyfishing leader system, like a freshwater leader system, is tapered. It is composed of 2 to 4 sections of mono attached to the Head of the fly line. While it’s beyond the scope of this article to detail how to set up the leader (see the list of Recommended Reading at the bottom for information on setting up leaders) I will mention them here:

1. The section of mono that first attaches to the fly line is known as the Butt leader section. This is typically very heavy mono (30 lb. test or so). A general rule-of-thumb us the Butt leader should be as close to two-thirds (.66) the diameter of the end of the fly line you will be attaching it to. A pocket micrometer will help you measure the diameters.
   
    
2. An optional intermediate length of mono, called the Tip, is often attached between the Butt and the next section. The Tip is usually anywhere from 20 lb. to 27 lb. test mono. It’s purpose is to help taper the leader down.
   
    
3. The Tippet is the lightest section of mono used in the leader. This is the section by which people use to discuss and categorize the strength of the fly outfit used to land a fish. It is also the section the IGFA uses for determining fly rod world records. Many anglers attach their fly directly to the Tippet.
   
    
4. Finally, an optional shock or bite-off leader is often attached after the tippet. This can be either heavy mono (anywhere from 30 lb. test up to 80 lb. test or even more!) or wire line. It’s purpose is to provide protection from abrasions and bite-offs from toothy fish.
   
    
5. In all cases be sure that each consecutive section of leader is shorter than the previous section in order to ensure good turn over. For example, if your butt section is 3 feet long your tippet section should be less than 3 feet.

"Why do I need a tapered leader? Won't a straight uniform piece of mono work?"

There is much widely differing opinion on this subject. It can be argued that it's the fly line and not the leader which turns over the fly. Also, sinking lines usually don't require tactful presentation so a uniform leader works well. However, it can also be clearly demonstrated that good fly presentation is a function of transferring the energy of the fly line all the way down the leader to the fly. And tapered leaders help make the transfer move smoothly. This is especially true for floating and intermediate lines.

My suggestion to a new saltwater fly fisher is to stick with the tried and true method of using a tapered leder system. However, don't let yourself get overly concerned about tapers and line-to-line connections so much so that you over look learning to cast (and having fun!). Later, after you've gained some experience and can be in a good position to decide for yourself give level uniform leaders a try.

"Should I use braided mono loops to attach the leader to the fly line?"

No! While there is differing opinion on the subject, nearly every one who has used those type of pre-made braided mono loops has, at one time or another, lost a good fish when the loop broke or the leader pulled off the line. No matter how tight you pull the braided material or how much glue you use they do come off. There are techniques for sowing a braided mono loop to your fly line but that is beyond the scope of this article.

Many flycasters (including myself) prefer to use a Nail Knot or similar knot to attach the Butt to the fly line. However, if you are sure you want to use a loop connection there are several good techniques for make strong loops not using the braided mono material. See the list of Recommended Videos and Reading at the bottom of this article for information on making loops in fly line and knot tying.

"How long should my leader be?"

IGFA regulations require the Tippet section of the leader to be at least 15 inches, while the Shock/Bite-Off Leader (if used) can only be a maximum of 12 inches. Overall, however, there is no limit on the length of the entire leader system. In general, it’s always a good practice to follow IGFA rules when fly fishing. There are many potential records still available (and many others that can reasonably be set). You never know when that record fish will strike!

The actual length of your leader will depend on many factors. Floating and intermediate lines generally use longer leaders while sinking lines use shorter leaders. This is because you don’t want the floating or intermediate line to come down too close to the fish and spook it. Likewise, with a sinking line a short leader ensures your fly stays very close to the actual depth of the sinking line. Finally, in clearer waters longer leaders are generally used while at night or in darker waters shorter leaders can suffice.

There is no set rule on leader length and you’ll have to adapt and adjust to the various conditions you find.

Other Equipment

Waders – For a complete discussion of waders see our series of articles entitled "Footwear in the Surf" on our Articles page.

Stripping Basket – A stripping basket is used to hold the fly line as you strip it in rather than letting it fall into the water. This keeps the line free from snags and helps improve casting.

A basket is typically made from a rubber wash pan with a webbed belt or bungee cord attached. It is worn at the waist or a bit higher. Sometimes a liner with rubber or plastic "fingers" is used to further help prevent the line from tangling in the basket.

Collapsible mesh baskets are also sold, usually for traveling anglers where bringing a plastic basket is impractical.

Also, you should use a good quality basket insert to help avoid tangles and make smoother casts.

Fly Bag or Vest – Many anglers use a vest as in freshwater flyfishing. This is good on a boat or when wading shallows. However, for more difficult conditions a shoulder bag works better. You can use an old surf plug bag to hold your fly boxes, leader materials, extra spool, etc.

Pliers – All surf anglers should carry a pair of fisherman’s plies and a pair of snubbed-nose/needle-nose pliers. They are good for cutting heavy mono and for helping to remove hooks taken deep inside the fish.

Large Nail Clippers – Nail clippers are great tools for cutting and trimming fly leaders. The small jaws efficiently cut the lighter leader materials often used and are more precise than the line cutters on pliers. Most saltwater fly fishermen carry a pair of large nail clippers on a string around their neck. This tool has even caught on with many surf casters too!

Night Light – A small light, either word on a string around your next or on your head in Miner’s style, can provide the light needed during the night for tying knots, removing hooks, etc.

Safety Glasses – Under windy conditions sometimes your fly and line might come close to your face during casting. Many fly fishers use a pair of heavy plastic non-shattering shop safety glasses to protect their eyes from the line and hook.

To all clubs and organizations:

We are available for presentations to your group including:

• Slide Show

• Fly Tying Demonstration

• Panel Discussion

• Media Interview and Commentary

Click Here to email us for additional information.

Recommended Videos and Reading

The following videos and books are suggested for reading in more detail about the equipment and techniques of saltwater flyfishing: